A UNIQUE EXHIBIT ON THE BAROQUE UNDERWORLD

The Petit Palais is currently hosting an exhibit which has never been presented in France before. Unlike the usual idealistic view of Rome, the display depicts a more down-to-earth, somber vision of the Roman underworld – its vice, poverty and excess.

An initial exhibition was presented last autumn at the Villa Medici in Rome. For the Paris showcase, it is bolstered by new prestigious loans from the National Gallery (London), Nationalmuseum (Stockholm), National Gallery of Ireland, Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), the Louvre, Galleria Borghese, Palazzo Barberini and even some private collections. This year, around 70 exceptional paintings will evoke the clandestine and shady side of the Italian capital.

Baroque4

Expect to be treated to works by Caravaggio, the Bamboccianti and the principal Italianate landscape painters. Among those represented in the display are works by French painters Valentin de Boulogne, Simon Vouet, Nicolas Tournier, and Claude Lorrain along with other European artists (including Pieter Van Laer, Gerrit van Honthorst, Jan Miel from Northern Europe and Bartolomeo Manfredi, Lanfranco, Salvator Rosa and Jusepe de Ribera of the south).

What exactly do these painters have in common? They found their source of inspiration in the crude world of poverty and violence, drinking and gambling. Having frequented the more sleazy areas of the city late at night, they chose to depict a more realistic vision of Rome rather than idealize its beauty. Interestingly, many of the North European artists belonged to a secret society called the ‘Bentvueghels’ meaning ‘birds of a feather’ in Dutch. They likewise considered Bacchus, god of wine and artistic inspiration, as their patron.

Lastly, the Petit Palais worked with Italian opera director and scenographer Pier Luigi Pizzi to put forward Rome’s duality during that period giving a contrasting sense of a melancholic underworld against the splendor of the papal palaces.

Opening hours

From Tuesday to Sunday : 10 am – 6 pm

Late opening on Friday until 9 pm
Closed on Monday and public holidays

Exhibit runs until 24 Mail 2015

Admission charges

Full-price: 11€

Reduced rate: 8€

Related Activites:

On the 13th of May, an artist photographer will be present at the museum studio to immortalize your visit to the Baroque Underworld. Using the museum’s costumes, accessories and a little creativity, have fun posing for an unforgettable portrait souvenir of yourself or your Baroque family. (Available upon reservation 72 hours prior to the photo session and an activity fee of 7€ per child and 9€ per adult)

 

ROCK WALL CLIMBING IN PARIS

Looking for an activity away from the chilly outdoors? Then check out the recently opened Beaujon Sports Center in the 8th arrondissement of Paris.

This Saturday, Parisians are invited to experience the center’s world-class indoor rock climbing facility for free as part of its Sports Decouverte initiative. The wall features an impressive height of 18.5 meters making it the highest in France and the second largest in Europe. The climbing wall is exceptionally open on December 20 to accommodate two sessions between 14h30 to 16h and 16h30 to 18h.

For those not fond of heights, the 5-level sports center also offers an espace balnéaire with its new 25-meter indoor pool facility, training pool and a vast gymnasium for badminton or other activities.

Interested wall climbing participants should register 30 minutes before the session and submit 2 photo IDs and a proof of residency (limited to Paris residents).

Find more information here (details in French) along with the registration form.

BRITISH FILM WEEK IN CHATOU

Film enthusiasts in the west suburb of Paris are being treated to the 12th edition of the British film week currently being held at the cinema Louis Jouvet in Chatou. The week-long event features British cinema with the premier showing of movies such as Mr. Turner, Queen & Country and the much anticipated advanced screening of the family film, Paddington on Sunday, 30 November. Check the British Film week’s partial schedule below or go to www.chatou.fr for a complete listing.

MR TURNER  30 Nov 18h00 and 1 Dec 20h30

QUEEN AND COUNTRY 30 Nov 15h45

PADDINGTON 30 Nov 11h00 (VO) and 14h (VF)

STILL LIFE 28 Nov 20h45

ONE CHANCE 29 Nov 18h30

 

 

TOP PICKS ON KIDS’ ACTIVITIES IN PARIS

Even kid-friendly cities such as Paris can be no match for today’s livewire kids. When you’ve done your limit of the usual places (Jardin de Luxembourg or Paris Plage), it can quickly leave one wondering what next weekend’s agenda will be.

Here are our top picks of kids’ activities that will keep the children busy, whether they fancy a bit of fossil hunting or just playtime outdoors.

Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle

This place promises to be more than just another day at the museum. Start with the Grande Galerie d’Evolution for a fascinating discovery of 7,000 different species and marvel at the diversity of nature. It is sure to offer something for parents and kids alike – from the immense hall that features a majestic procession of animal wildlife to life-sized models of a giant squid and Sumatran tiger. Find out what the perished quagga (partly-stripped zebra) and the vanishing narwhal (unicorn of the ocean) look like in the hall of threatened and extinct species (Salle des Espèces Menacées et des Espèces Disparues) while educating the little ones on the importance of protecting these animals. Afterwards, wind down from all the walking by heading to the Children’s Gallery (Galerie des Enfants) where kids can discover an entire area dedicated to interactive activities.

P-2013-18782 PGBlog

Parisian Guide Tip: If the kids would like to try some real-life bone-digging after the visit, an excavation activity (chantier de fouilles) is offered on Wednesdays from 2 to 5pm and on weekends from 10am to 5pm. Slots are limited for the activity so be sure to register early. More info: http://www.mnhn.fr/le-museum/ (Entrance fees: €7 for 27 years and older; closed on Tuesdays)

The Alternative: La Maison Deyrolle

Take a peek at this curiously unique boutique not far from the metro of rue de Bac. The ground floor entrance is a seemingly typical gardening store and bookshop. But head upstairs and watch your children’s faces as they discover a fantastic shop specializing in the world of taxidermy (the art of mounting animal skin to give it a lifelike appearance). Understandably not for the squeamish, you can find various well-preserved items on display from butterflies, an owl, and a peacock to a polar bear, giraffe and even an elephant. All the animals are for sale ranging from 10 euros for a beautiful beetle to thousands of euros for a keepsake tiger. More info: http://www.deyrolle.com/magazine/ (Free entrance)

DSC_9310 copie_©MarcDantan_PGblog

Ferme et Cueillette de Gally

Take a break from the city, get back to basics and head to this 40-hectare farm market near the Château de Versailles. It offers a fun alternative for kids to get hands-on experience on harvesting fruits and vegetables directly from the trees and branches instead of just picking them from shelves in the supermarket. Depending on the season, the family can choose from strawberries, cherries, blueberries, prunes and apples during spring to summer. The kids can also head to the farm’s petting zoo where they can touch and feed local sheep, goats and cows.  Check their website for a list of what’s on offer for the season.

Parisian Guide Tip: From the month of July, La Ferme de Gally welcomes everyone to 4 hectares of pure fun in a giant labyrinth. Everyone is welcome to participate, obviously while keeping the little ones in sight. Towards the end of summer, the farm organizes an evening to get lost in the maze where participants bring lamps to find the exit path with the help of hints and clues. A barbeque is also set up allowing families to prepare and enjoy freshly grilled lunch or dinner. More info: www.ferme.gally.com (Entrance Fees: €4.10 adults, €3.50 for 3 years or older)

The Alternative: Parc des Buttes Chaumont–If you’re looking for a change from Paris’ perfectly manicured and landscaped parks away from the tourist crowd then head to Parc des Buttes Chaumont. This breathtaking 25-hectare urban sanctuary is Paris’ third largest park and has an interestingly rich history. Prior to its transformation into a garden showcase by Napoleon III and Baron Haussmann, its previous incarnation was that of a battlefield, execution ground, and a gypsum quarry. Its current majestic yet relaxed landscape is the perfect place to stroll with its picturesque swan-dotted lake, luscious green lawns and imposing waterfall that leads to a stalactite-filled grotto. One of its most iconic features is the mini Greek temple called Belvedere of Sybil with its Corinthian style columns (after the ancient Roman Temple of Vesta). It offers spectacular views of Montmartre from 30m above ground. This romantic style park has much to offer kids with its open-air puppet theatre, pony rides and crepe stands while adults will not tire of exploring its nooks and crannies through kilometers of bridges and walkways. More info: www.butteschaumont.free.fr (Free entrance)

DSC_9310 copie_©MarcDantan_PGblog

Menagerie du Jardin des Plantes

The Menagerie in the Jardin des Plantes (same grounds as the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle) was originally built in the 17th century to house the animals of the royal family, making it one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world. It now houses small to medium sized birds, reptiles and mammals most of which are threatened with extinction. Being at the center of Paris and right along the Seine, it makes for a great day trip with the family. Have a good laugh with the kids while monkeying around with Nanette, the Bornean orangutan or just watch the big cats with the little ones. There are also pretty pink flamingoes, a caracal (desert lynx) and Maya, the red panda.

p-2013-18943 PGBlog

Parisian Guide Tip: Bring your own snacks for an impromptu picnic within the zoo or just to feed the goats in la petite ferme. On summer weekends, curious kids can meet some zookeepers for an insight on the care of the animals. More info: http://www.mnhn.fr/le-museum/ (Entrance fees: €11 adults, €9 for 4-16 years old).

The Alternatives: Aquarium Tropical dela Porte Doree – For kids who are more into water creatures, visit the Aquarium de la Porte Doree. While it is admittedly more intimate than its larger counterpart in Trocadero, the aquarium still showcases about 5000 animals and 300 species from Africa, the Americas and the South of Asia. Offer your children a fascinating afternoon in a mysterious and colorful world of primitive and electric fishes, legendary piranhas, alligators and sharks. More info: http://www.aquarium-portedoree.fr/ (Entrance fees: €5.00 adults, €3.50 for 4-25 years old; Fees during special exhibitions: €7 and €5.50 respectively, closed on Mondays)

The Parc Zoologique de Paris

Zoo de Vincennes (as it is better known) will finally open its doors on April 2014 after a 5-year renovation. Aimed at giving visitors the experience of total immersion, the climate-controlled zoo will feature 180 species in 5 different biozones (Europe, Madagascar, Amazon-Guyane, Patagonie and Sahel-Soudan). Visitors will be treated to a global tour of animal biodiversity with mainstays such as giraffes, lynx and jaguars to endangered and lesser known species such as the Humboldt penguin, fossa, radiated tortoise, dwarf crocodile and wolverines. More info: http://parczoologiquedeparis.fr/

WORLDS OF WELLNESS IN PARIS

 

Feeling stressed out? Moving to a new country can be a lot of work, from understanding the nuances of another language and adjusting to the culture to figuring out how to prepare dishes using unfamiliar ingredients. Several weeks of intense disorientation can indeed make one feel like taking a break from it all.

But you can go on that much-needed holiday without stepping too far from your adopted home. Sylvia Sabes explores some spas in Paris that blend exotic appeal with accents of luxury, and transport weary individuals to worlds of wellness and relaxation.

Les Cent Ciels

Modern day Ottoman harem in Paris

Modern day Ottoman harem in Paris

This dream location resembles a modern-day Ottoman harem, with a candle-lit stairway that leads into a terra cotta sanctum. The hostess guides you into a locker room adorned with an oriental carpet and wine-stained walls. Downstairs is a pool, a sauna and a tiled hammam, with wide warm seats and a fountain bathed in gentle light. Make sure to request for an argan-soaked massage before taking a blissful nap.

Where45 Bis Avenue Edouard Vaillant, Boulogne Billancourt(M) Porte de St CloudTel: 01 46 20 07 01 contact@lescentciels.fr When Women: Mon, Wed to Fri 10AM to 5PM,
Tues 5 to11 PM,
Sat 10AM to 9PM,
Sun 10 AM to 8 PMMen and Women (mandatory bathing suits): Mon, Wed to Fri, 5 to 11PMWomen: Sundays 10AM to 8PM for womenMen and Women: 2nd and last Sun of each month
How much
From €40 for a simple hammam to €290 with massage, clay, facial and a meal

Wissaï

Wissai PGBlog

Thai women clad in traditional embroidered silks welcome you into interiors filled with eastern scents, warm wood and gold tones. After slipping into loose, comfortable clothes – allowing movement – patrons will be stretched and pulled in every direction. The firm rhythmic pressure activates pressure points and relaxes tired muscles. Floral tea follows the treatment, prolonging the pleasure.

Where
80 rue de Vaugirard, 6e(M) RennesTel: 01 42 22 00 70
When Mon to Sun, 11AM to 9PM How muchMassages start at €40 for 30 min.

After The Rain

Relaxing in a Swiss spa in Paris

The spa is actually Swiss, but the hotel is quite popular with the Spanish. When booking your treatment, it is advised to show up early to take advantage of their pool and hammam. Zen design – dark greys with splashes of red – marks the underground cellars, setting the stage for relaxation. After a few laps and a session in the hammam, a facial treatment will make you feel as docile as a kitten, sipping flavored water and tea while nibbling on snacks such as fresh fruit and candied orange rind.

Where
Saint James Albany Paris Hôtel Spa202 rue de Rivoli, 1e(M) ConcordTel: 01 44 58 43 77
reception@aftertherain.fr
When Mon to Thurs, 9AM to 9 PMFri to Sat 9 AM to 10 PMSun 10 AM to 8 PM How much€100 for a 45 minute massage to €760 for a 6 hour mini spa, access to the pool and hammam included

Spa L’Occitane

A spa with a feel of the French countryside

A spa with a feel of the French countryside

With its pale wooden stairs lined with dried flowers, L’Occitane, situated in the chic Saint Germain neighborhood, makes you feel like you’re in the French countryside. The treatment rooms are decorated in the same sophisticated country tones. Their new Massage Décontraction Bien Être, created in partnership with a physical therapist, is a combination of intense breathing exercises and body positions.

Where
42 rue de Sevres, 6e(M) Sevres BabyloneTel: 01 42 22 88 62 reception@aftertherain.fr
When
Mon, Wed 11AM to 7PMTues 1 to 7 PMThurs 10 AM to 8 PMFri to Sat 10 AM to 7:30 PM
How much
Treatments starting at €68, massages €95

Dior Institut

An elegant spa for a day of pure pampering

An elegant spa for a day of pure pampering

The Hotel Plaza Athénée is so chic that I felt like a princess as I walked past the courtyard garden to the elegant spa, a piece of paradise painted in iconic Dior grey. Gym facilities and a hammam can be used before treatment. The establishment specializes in making you look picture-perfect, and before you head out to face the world once again, spend some time in the large rest area for tea and healthy treats.

Where
Dior Institut, Hotel Plaza Athénée25 ave Montaigne, 8e(M) AlmaMarceauTel: 0153676535 institutDiorHPA@dorchestercollection.com
When
Mon to Sun, 9AM to 9 PM
How much
Antistress massage €170access to the hammam and fitness center included 

La Mosquée de Paris

The tea garden at the Mosquée de Paris is a Middle Eastern haven. Song birds dart from the trees, pastries grace mosaic tables, and subdued light envelops a beautiful hammam. There are coin-operated lockers, several steam rooms – each one sultrier than the next – and a dipping pool. Buckets for rinsing are on hand as well as a room where you can put your feet up while sipping mint tea.

Where
39 rue Geoffrey Saint-Hilaire, 5e (M) Jussieu01 43 31 38 20contact@lamosqueedeparis.com
WhenWomen: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday 10 AM to 9 PM Friday   2 PM to 9 PM
Men: Tuesday 2 PM to 9 PM, Sunday 10 AM to 9 PM
How muchFrom €18 for a simple hammam to €63 with a massage and a meal.

Essential vocabulary

Soins – treatment

Visage – face

Corps – body

Détente – relaxation

Amincissant – weight loss

Gommage – exfoliation

 

 

CAP FERRET: THE LITTLE KNOWN FRENCH COASTAL GETAWAY

Bassin Arcachon_PGBlog

Imagine a vacation spot where you can dine next to French movie stars while still wearing your sundress from the beach. Getting the best of both worlds seems far-fetched, but fortunately it’s not – and this place exists in France.

Of course there are the usual spots, such as chic Cannes and Saint-Tropez, or quaint Provence. If you want trendy and tranquil, however, it’s Cap Ferret, where it’s possible to enjoy a meal by the shore then wander around town in your bathing suit. Vanessa Paradis and Johnny Depp found this little-known getaway cool enough to have spent a few summers here; it has a relaxed, New England vibe thanks to its mix of oyster shacks and art galleries. Take care though not to confuse Cap Ferret with Cap Ferrat, the distinctly posh holiday destination in the French Riviera. This one, a narrow strip of sand, is the peninsula 60 kilometers from Bordeaux, tucked between the Atlantic and the Bassin d’Arcachon. With beaches and pine forests to the west and the calm bay to the east, it is home to some of the cleanest waters in Europe and there is more than enough for everyone to see, eat and do here.

Village ostréicole_PGBlog

WHERE TO STAY

Cap Ferret does not have an abundance of hotels, but if you book early enough you can find a few gems dotting the dunes. The most talked about is La Maison du Bassin, which has an enclosed bar and lounge hidden behind tall foliage. The ambience – straight out of a Bruce Weber photograph – creates a cozy backdrop for dinner or post-dip drinks. For guests staying longer than a few days or those traveling with family, the best option is to rent a house or apartment. Like all vacation towns, Cap Ferret has multiple rental agencies to choose from. We stayed in Le Canon and would do so again given the central location within the peninsula and the proximity to the oyster bars. It’s an easy ten-minute drive to the beaches and to the main town. Le Canon is surrounded by restaurants, shops, grocery stores and markets, most within walking distance. Should one prefer to go camping, there are many dedicated sites five minutes from the shore.

Beach biking PGBlog

WHAT TO DO

There are several beaches to explore on the Atlantic side. As it is against the law to build any establishments on this portion of the coast, only two have food options resulting in an unobstructed view of the horizon and the World War II bunkers behind you. If surfing is your thing, the Ecole de Surf de Cap Ferret offers lessons and weekly camps. Hiking, you say? There are over 785 square kilometers of trails throughout the pine forests for running, walking and biking. These paths will take you from one sandy slice of paradise to the next, perfect for a fun day trip. While there are smaller markets throughout each of the towns, do not miss the Cap Ferret market. It is open from 8 am to 1 pm in the summer time and features textiles, clothes, jewelry and cosmetics.

Watch the sunset on Europe's biggest sand dune

Watch the sunset on Europe’s biggest sand dune

For shorter excursions, ferries can take you to and from Cap Ferret. You can go for a picnic lunch and spend the day on the Dune du Pilat, Europe’s highest sand dune. It’s a bit surreal to walk only on fine, loose grains for an entire day, but the experience yields spectacular views of the bay and is something you won’t likely get to do elsewhere. You can also explore Bird Island or the town of Archachon, where the Phillipe Starck-designed restaurant La Co(o)rniche Pyla-sur-Mer is located. If you’re more of a thrill-seeker, you can soak up the sights by paragliding.

Apero by the beach

Apero by the beach

WHERE TO EAT

Ostréiculture, or oyster farming, has enabled Cap Ferret to maintain its rustic charm over the years and forms a large part of its economy. When wild oyster production began to decline in the mid-19th century, Napoleon III brought the practice back to the area, which has been known for its bivalves ever since. After daily apéros with freshly shucked oysters and local white wine by the bay, a similar meal somewhere else will not taste as fresh. Catching a glimpse of the farmers tending to the endless oyster beds while one is on board a ferry underscores just how important this enterprise is to the locals. In Le Canon, there is the Quartier Ostréicole, where you can pick and choose a different place for your daily oyster and wine apéro. Strolling through the dusty path, past the colorfully painted oyster shacks, is like stepping back in time. If you can spare an afternoon to watch the world go by, head from Le Canon to Chez Boulan, the oyster institution in Cap Ferret. Situated on the bay, the garden – with its mismatched wooden tables and chairs – is straight out of Alice in Wonderland.

Chez Boulon site

If you’re still craving more seafood, then the best recourse is dinner at Chez Hortense. Since 1938, the restaurant has served what many consider to be the best moules frites in France, a well-guarded house recipe. (Our best guess is that it’s a mix of parsley, white wine, lemon and parmesan cheese.) If you manage to reserve a table, you may get the chance to spot French celebrities such as Marion Cotillard. There are other places around the Marché Cap Ferret that are worth your while. The first, Lemoine, is a café with an outpost in Paris. It has roots in southwestern France and is a top spot in which to grab a seat in the sun and people-watch. Don’t miss their famous cannelés. For a more substantial meal – and a break from traditional French fare – try Le Bistro de Peyo, located in the covered market. It serves Basque-style tapas and Spanish wines by the glass. It’s hard to get a standing space during lunch, so either get there early or arrive after the rush. Other restaurants to sample in Cap Ferret:

Pinasse Café Allée Bélisaire Tél. : +33 5 56 03 77 87

Le Bistro de Bassin 5, rue des Pionniers Tél. : +33 5 56 03 72 46

So PhareAway 32, avenue Nord du Phare Tél. : +33 5 56 60 22 87

Restaurant O D’ici 62, avenue de l’Océan Tél. :+33 5 57 70 59 13

SOME USEFUL TIPS:

  • If you take the train to Bordeaux, definitely rent a car as you will want one to explore the various towns and beaches.
  • Not all beaches have lifeguards on duty 24/7. Check with the local tourism office to see which have them and on which times of the day.
  • Do you have little ones with you? There is le petit train that chugs throughout the town of Cap Ferret.
  • Traffic can be a bit heavy from 5 to 7 pm on the main road. It’s the perfect time to relax at an oyster shack for apéro.